You waited weeks for these. Your set arrives foam-lined — shipping is free, so nothing is added at delivery. A little attention up front keeps them looking and running the way they left our floor. Here is exactly what we tell every owner.
Give them a wash in the first week, before road film and brake dust set in. Rinse first to clear grit, then use a pH-neutral car shampoo and a dedicated soft wheel mitt — one mitt for the wheels only, never the same one you use on paint. Dry with a clean microfiber so you do not leave water spots on the finish. Skip automatic car washes with stiff brushes; they scuff a forged finish faster than anything else.
This is the one that matters. After the first 50 to 100 miles, re-check every lug to the torque spec on your build sheet with a calibrated torque wrench. New wheels seat slightly against the hub as they settle, and clamping load can drop over those first miles. Re-torque in a star pattern, cold. Check again after your first few heat cycles. If a lug ever feels loose, stop and re-torque before you drive on it.
Torque spec · see your build sheet · star pattern · wheels cold
The finish is durable, but a few things will damage it. Stay away from:
When in doubt: pH-neutral shampoo, water, a soft mitt. That is all a forged finish needs. Iron-fallout removers are fine occasionally if they are labeled wheel-safe and pH-neutral — rinse thoroughly.
If your car runs tire-pressure sensors, they were mounted and paired when your tires were fitted. Sensors have a battery that lasts several years and eventually needs replacing — a tire shop handles that. If a pressure light comes on, check your pressures first; it is usually just temperature or a slow leak, not the wheel. After any tire service, have the shop confirm the sensors are re-seated and reading before you leave.
Road salt, brine, and chemical de-icers are the hardest thing a wheel finish faces. If you drive through any of it, rinse the wheels down more often through the season — salt left sitting is what causes trouble over time, not the occasional exposure. A wheel-safe sealant applied at the start of the cold months makes rinsing easier and adds a layer between the finish and the road. If the car gets stored, clean the wheels before it goes away, not after.
Wheels are built and sold as sets of four, but one bad pothole doesn’t mean replacing all four. Curb a lip or crack a barrel and we can rebuild a single wheel — forged from the same program and finish-matched to your set — starting at $1,125 per wheel (monoblock). It’s a made-to-order service for existing owners, so email [email protected] with your order number and we’ll arrange it.